‘The Jeweller of Kings’: V&A Museum Unveils Cartier’s Art, Design, and Craftsmanship in Stunning New Exhibition
The Victoria and Albert Museum in London is currently hosting its first major exhibition in nearly 30 years, dedicated to the designs, artistry, and cultural impact of the French jeweller. Running from 12 April to 16 November 2025, the exhibition showcases rare and iconic pieces. Featuring more than 350 objects, including precious jewels, such as striking diamond rings or exquisite tiaras, historic gemstones, and Cartier’s most celebrated watches and clocks, it charts the evolution of the house’s legacy of art, design, and craftsmanship since the turn of the 20th century. With Cartier’s story proving hugely popular, tickets for the first six weeks have already sold out.
Lead curator Helen Molesworth and her team have collaborated with international museums, the royal collection, and private collectors to secure a selection of extraordinary pieces—some never before displayed. Among them is a delicate brooch encrusted with diamonds from 1910, and a rare black opal tiara once worn by Mary Alice Cavendish, the Duchess of Devonshire. The exhibition traces Cartier’s evolution from a family-run Parisian jewellery house to a globally renowned brand, celebrated as ‘the jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers.’ It also highlights Cartier’s expanding influence across cinema, music, and fashion. Founded in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, the brand flourished under his grandsons Louis, Pierre, and Jacques, transforming a small Parisian workshop into a global icon.
Cartier’s ascent from a Parisian atelier to a global powerhouse is the focus of this landmark exhibition, showcasing over 350 exceptional pieces that define the brand’s influence in fine jewellery and horology. Since its founding in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, the house has commanded the attention of high society, with Princess Mathilde, cousin of Napoleon, acquiring her first Cartier creation in 1856—an early testament to the brand’s prestige among the elite.
Yet it was the next generation—Louis, Pierre, and Jacques Cartier—who transformed the business from a family-run operation into a dominant force in the luxury industry. By the early 20th century, Cartier had expanded its footprint beyond Paris, establishing flagship boutiques in London and New York, cementing its reputation as the preferred jeweller of royalty, tastemakers, and influential figures worldwide.
Exhibition curators Helen Molesworth and Rachel Garrahan say ‘This exhibition will explore how Louis, Pierre and Jacques Cartier, together with their father Alfred, adopted a strategy of original design, exceptional craftsmanship and international expansion that transformed the Parisian family jeweller into a household name. With its world-class jewellery collection, the V&A is the perfect stage to celebrate the pioneering achievements of Cartier and its transformative ability to remain at the centre of culture and creativity for more than a century. We are excited to be able to share with visitors some of Cartier’s most famous creations as well as revealing previously unseen objects and archive material that further enriches our understanding of a jewellery house that continues to influence the way we adorn ourselves today.’
Divided into three key sections, the exhibition explores Cartier’s rise as a global powerhouse, the legacy of its technical mastery, and its artful approach to image-making while preserving an air of exclusivity in a constantly evolving world. The jeweller’s brilliance lay in reinterpreting decorative arts history into sought-after designs—such as the ‘Garland Style,’ a delicate and romantic aesthetic inspired by 18th-century French architecture. Showcased pieces reflecting this ingenuity include a scarab brooch with vibrant calibré-cut gem-set wings, influenced by the traditional Indian bazuband, and a striking geometric brooch from 1925, embodying the bold elegance of Art Deco.
The exhibition presents a spectacular showcase of Cartier’s celebrated Tutti Frutti collection, a vibrant tribute to rare and colorful gemstones that has long captivated jewellery enthusiasts. Among the standout pieces is the Mountbatten bandeau, crafted by Cartier London in 1928—a rare example of a Tutti Frutti headpiece, once owned by Edwina, Lady Mountbatten.
Also on display is the exquisite jade bead necklace belonging to American heiress Barbara Hutton, considered one of the finest collections of its kind, alongside the striking Allnatt brooch, featuring a remarkable 101-carat vivid yellow diamond. This unrivaled selection exemplifies Cartier’s mastery in blending heritage, craftsmanship, and bold design.
The exhibition also highlights Cartier’s deep ties with the British royal family. King Edward VII famously called Cartier “the jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers,” granting it a royal warrant just two years after its London boutique opened in 1902.
The visionary floral designs of British artist Frederick Mew, who shaped Cartier’s aesthetic from the late 1920s to 1971, were a favorite among British royals. In 1953, Queen Elizabeth II commissioned Mew to craft a brooch featuring the rare 23.6-carat pink Williamson diamond—gifted to her as a wedding present. Now, Mew’s never-before-seen preliminary sketches are displayed alongside the exquisite brooch, on loan from the royal collection.
Curator Helen Molesworth uncovered a surprising find in the V&A archive—Mew’s early sketches for a black pearl bracelet, which turned out to be the initial designs for a wristlet commissioned in 1953 by the Maharani of Baroda. This rare bracelet, considered among the most valuable in the world, is on loan from a private collector.
Royal enthusiasts will be delighted to find several extraordinary pieces on display in the exhibition, including the Williamson Diamond brooch, loaned by King Charles from the Royal Collection. Commissioned by Queen Elizabeth II from Cartier in 1953—the year of her coronation—it showcases the rare 23.6-carat pink Williamson diamond, a wedding gift she received in 1947. Nearby, visitors can admire a delicate rose clip brooch that once belonged to Princess Margaret, a cherished piece she wore at her sister’s coronation, now part of the Cartier Collection. Beyond British royalty, a standout attraction is Grace Kelly’s breathtaking 10.48-carat step-cut diamond Cartier engagement ring, loaned from the Monaco Princely Palace Collection. Worn in High Society, it remains one of the most iconic jewels of the actress-turned-princess before her marriage to Prince Rainier III of Monaco.
The exhibition reaches a dazzling finale with a stunning collection of tiaras—long regarded as the ultimate status symbol of wealth, elegance, and grandeur. These masterpieces not only represent opulence but also showcase the pinnacle of a jeweller’s artistic vision and technical expertise.
A particularly captivating highlight is the Opal Tiara, commissioned in 1937 by Mary Cavendish, the Marchioness of Hartington, and making its exhibition debut. When she later became the Dowager Duchess of Devonshire, she repurposed the tiara as a necklace for Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation, where she played a key ceremonial role as Mistress of the Robes.
Also on display is the Garland Scroll Tiara, originally created in 1902 for the Countess of Essex. It later adorned Lady Churchill, the wife of the prime minister, at Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation. Decades after its royal appearances, this striking piece took center stage in the fashion world—crowned atop Rihanna’s head on the cover of W magazine’s September 2016 issue.
Some of the rarest pieces on display originated from personal commissions. In 1933, American heiress Barbara Hutton requested 27 jade beads from Myanmar be transformed into a Cartier necklace, later adorned with rubies. Also showcased is a breathtaking seven-tier diamond necklace commissioned in 1928 by Bhupinder Singh, the Maharaja of Patiala. Cartier’s designs often featured gemstones sourced from across the world—emeralds from Colombia, sapphires from Sri Lanka, and diamonds from India and South Africa—though the colonial history behind these acquisitions is largely overlooked.
The final room is a celebration of Cartier’s tiaras, spanning over a century of craftsmanship. Molesworth anticipates many visitors will return multiple times, noting, “To see this collection of objects together is very unusual. It’s very special.”
Conclusion
Cartier’s legacy is one of craftsmanship, prestige, and relentless innovation—a brand that has not only defined luxury but has continuously evolved with the times. This landmark exhibition at the V&A, open from 12 April to 16 November 2025, is more than just a showcase of exquisite jewels; it is a celebration of artistry, heritage, and cultural influence that spans royalty, Hollywood, and high society.
From the dazzling neckleces to historic tiaras worn by monarchs and film icons, each piece tells a story of style, ambition and elegance. As Cartier remains at the forefront of luxury, this exhibition serves as a striking reminder of the house’s ability to reinvent itself while maintaining its timeless appeal. Whether as a royal treasure, a cinematic symbol, or a personal heirloom, Cartier’s masterpieces continue to captivate the world—just as they have for over a century.
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